The decision to re-re-locate back up to Narnia(credit Aengus) was further reiterated by the experiences recently incurred in Southern California. These incidents include but are not limited to; minimal swell, pollution, traffic, poop water, small waves, congested freeways, fevers, and fakeness.
After 10 days of swell blessed Thanksgiving bliss in Central Narnia (Photos By Sunny Smith), it came time to face the cold hard reality that all my materialistic Socal dwelling items were rotting away in a San Clemente storage facility costing me precious $ every month... Ignoring the green 4-6 foot Surfline forecast, I headed south... Bound for all my shit, more humans in less space, and less swell with more humans.
Luckily I was provided company for the journey down the coast... Zak Freedman was in need of a ride for emotional reasons, which meant I gained my own personal DJ for 3 – 8 hours. Check his band’s substance at www.myspace.com/halosband.
We arrived in LA latenight, I cruised to USC, found a girl, and crushed all night. Haha! Fantastic. JK… Tuesday, November 29th was spent at Rhythm HQ, met up with they’re new steez intern Andy, headed to River Jetties and found some fun waves with nobody out… Low and behold it was too good to be true, fun uncrowded waves in Socal??? Something must be wrong... And it was… Fell asleep that night 100%. Woke up 18.3%. Fever, sore throat, headache, body ache, aching, achy. EGG.Y.
Found out later I was exposed to raw sewage.
Next 2 days = Sleep in van, struggle, vitamin c, struggle, sleep sleep sleep, struggle, soup, STRUGGLE, SLEEEEEEEP, struggle, sleep, better. Hung out at Drew’s for a few days, then decided the omens were telling me to get the F out of Socal so I did. Stoked to be back, ready for waves.
Photos: Sunny Smith
Happy Holidays,
Dane
