The past month has been spent in California, both Southern and Central. Fall is a brilliant time of year: early morning wakeups, greeted with offshore winds and luscious combo swells, giving way to sunny skies which call for two and even three coffee days while attempting to fit in as much surfing as possible while the sun is still in the sky.
Late September through early October in San Clemente was average for waves, and we ended up commuting south to San Diego for the majority of our sessions(Above photo by Jack English). Few fun days here and there, but nothing special… In mid October, like a flock of geese in reverse, it was time to head north with the changing of the seasons. My good friend Victoria flew in from Colorado, and Luke decided to cruise up too. We stuffed the car full and headed north with the sounds of Victoria’s modern hippie music blaring in our ears.
The first few days home Luke, Myself, and Jonny scored super fun waves, with crystal clear water and balmy weather (Check the clip below)… Later in the week my favorite photographer ever, Mark Mcinnis, and my other best friend Drew showed up just in time for a fresh new swell. We woke up early with the sun, surfed our brains out all day, and ended with well-deserved beers in the hot tub followed by home cooked meals courtesy of my amazing mom.
Yesterday I flew out to Hawaii to compete in the 4 star Hic Pro at Sunset. Never even surfed Sunset but its looking like there should be waves on Monday. Stoked!
Dane
