Australia was nothing short of epic. New Zealand was nothing short of the opposite, so I'll keep it short. Upon landing, we rented a camper van in Auckland, drove 6 hours to the contest site of Gisborne, came as close to running out of gas as possible, and arrived to find super stormy storm surf requiring at least 20 duckdives to make it out the back. To make matters even better, Jonny got super sick... And then we both lost in our first heats. We drove back to Auckland eager to get home.
Upon returning to our place in San Clemente, the vibes instantly shifted. It felt good to be back in California after almost 2 months away. Jonny was healthy and reunited with Bagel, which made everything a lot less eggy. Plus the waves turned on, Luke Rife drove up, Ryah Arthur drove down, and we surfed fun sunny lowers for three straight days...
Then as quick as we came, we had left for Carmel in search of colder water to prepare for Scotland. The waves have been alright and the water has been freezing, but it's good to be back with my family(especially my mom's cooking after surfing all day). On Saturday its off to Scotland with Jonny and the Thorne brothers for the 6 star Oneill Cold Water Classic. From there I head to France solo for a 4 star at La Suazie...Should be interesting heard the wave there is fun. Until next time I leave you all with some footage from our lowers sessions(above) and some photos Sunny Smith took from this winter in Carmel(below).
SINCERELY,
Dane
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