Recently embarked for England and France with the Thorne twins to do contests. The overnight flight from LAX to London Heathrow was a breeze thanks to Nyquil. Upon arrival we scooped up our rental car, threw the boards on top, and were cruising through the English countryside toward the quaint beach town of Newqauy, home of the annual 6 star Boardmasters comp at Fistral Beach.
Five hours later we arrived, frothing to surf after sitting for close to 24 hours, threw our luggage into the hotel(conveniently situated on the bluff overlooking the contest site), and were out there in fun waist high wedges.
The next few days consisted of surfing out front, 5 sessions a day for me… in average mushy beachbreak. I would come in from every session saying how fun it was, but the Thorne’s would look at me as if I was insane.
The swell picked up and I surfed my first heat in head high semi storm surf. Sat wide, picked off a couple good rights and made it through in second. The next morning the swell had dropped but it was still waist to chest high, clean and fun. I couldn’t manage to find any waves until halfway through the heat. I got a good right from the outside, did two turns and a layback for a 6.5. All I needed was a 5.1, with 2 minutes to go a wedging left came right to me, took off, did one turn, and fell bottom turning into the best second section ever. I yelled so loud as I was falling. Had I done one more turn I would've got the score for sure. F#$@
Sick of the foggy, misty, rainy, mushy English environment, we were stoked to hop on a plane to head for the warmth and sexiness that could only be provided by the French. Flying into Bordeaux, we scooped up our rental car, got lost 3 times, and made it to the small town of Lacanua for the Sooruz Lacanau Pro. We were greeted by a wedgy sandbar, warm water, and a plethora of hot females flocking the beaches. France is on fire.
Back into contest mode. Surfed my first heat in waist/chest high fun sunny waves and managed to get a 5.87 and a 7.6 to win the heat. Stoked. Next day the swell dropped in the morning, tide was going out, and I couldn’t find any good ones and lost out.
Next its off to Virginia for a 4 star, then back to Spain for two more contests. But for now we’re still in France about to go eat some baguettes and cruise the beaches for topless chicks, not a bad way to spend a day with no waves!
Cheers,
Dane
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